The sticking coupling is probably just a lack of grease and can be sorted via the grease nipples. When the trailer is empty it locks up under firm braking, when loaded, it just makes for a not very smooth ride. But my main concern is when reversing, I don't have to engage the manual reverse any more, the brakes just don't seem to work very well.
Is this likely to be because the trailer had been standing for 12 months before we bought it so the brakes were rusted up and had a lot more friction, or is the braking mechanism likely to be at fault? I don't mind the brakes not working in reverse as there is never a situation where you would want them to work in reverse, but seeing as the mechanism is designed to apply the brakes when the coupling compresses, I don't understand why they wouldn't?!
Note it is not an auto-reverse hitch. Is greasing the mechanism not the answer to your own question. I think in reverse I doubt you compress the mechanism that easily if its stiff unless you really lurched backwards. Apparently the test to check the damper is working is just to push the hitch in by hand…it should move smoothly and slowly.
If it just goes in with no resistance or not at all, its fubared. The manual reverse is just a catch that locks the mechanism open. You have to apply the trailer handbrake and pull away from the trailer to extend the hitch before you can apply the catch and undo the handbrake.
Checked adjustment of brakes multiple times, all seems fine. The compensator bar where the 4 Bowden cables connect As rod adjuster was corroded.. Still the same I just did my breaks I second the possibility of the brake pads being on the wrong way round ie Front lining at the back.
Originally Posted by Bigplumbs. Originally Posted by Sargan. Also that video only covers taking brakes off.. Rule 3: Tha' can't educate pork. Originally Posted by Pikey Dave. Have you dropped a hub off to check the linings? Originally Posted by paintman. Always do before I post a link If all else fails see if a local caravan dealer's workshop will have a look as Al-ko are common on caravans.
May not be the issue, but note that the link I posted says that on one type of shoe they are indeed handed. Yours may not be that type. The Al-Ko brakes on my trailer havs shoes that are definitely not handed, I swapped them a year ago Knott brakes are handed.
Disconnected the rod tonight and tested reversing Hard to say given all you have done but is it possible that the auto reverse mechanism is siezed? Replacements not too ridiculously priced. One last check ,,, if the shoes are not correctly adjusted, ie too slack, the auto reverse will not operate.
The brakes will bind without going over on the cam. Adjust up until they lock whilst rotating forward, then back off a couple of clicks at a time until they are free. Operate the handbrake on an off a few times between each adjustment to centre the shoes. Do not worry about a slight rubbing noise caused by off centre. If you back off until there is absolutely no sound they are probably too loose.
When you give the lever a good pull there should be a mm gap between the lever and the shaft - You get this by adjusting the 10mm dome nut no. When you have the mm gap, lock the dome nut no. Bring the lock nut no. Then lock the nut in place with the other lock nut no. To test the setting, pull the hand brake up to the end of the ratchet, the 2 x lock nut no. Turn the wheels backwards. The wheels should lock forward and backwards. Push the head and shaft fully into the coupler body until the head pushes against the coupler body, which is quite difficult as you are compressing the shock absorber, this simulates when you reverse the trailer.
Release the handbrake holding the shaft in the compressed position. The wheels should now turn with resistance in reverse, but not forwards.
Raise the trailer wheels off the ground 2.
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